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April 3 Uprising and Massacre

Dark Tour: Jeju Island Beyond Teddy Bear Museums

This month marks 70 years of 4.3, one of the worst cases of violence perpetrated by the South Korean state against its own citizens. A different sort of tour shows Jeju beyond the teddy bears and postcard beaches.

The Ocean Between Jeju’s Island Natives and Mainland Newcomers

Jeju Island is one of South Korea's most popular tourist destinations. But mainland 'settler's on the island say discrimination against them is rampant. Islanders being insular isn't new. But Jeju's painful history offers another insight into the insularity and suspicion.

Getting Lost in Alleyways and Seoul’s Childhood

Not far from the busiest center of Seoul, with all the traffic and political rallies, there is Seochon, a quaint neighborhood in Seoul. Its only arcade is a microcosm of South Korea today, at the intersection of rapid change and nostalgia for the past.

meat-free

Best Meat-Free Buddhist Places to Eat in Seoul

Typically known for fried chicken and BBQ joints, South Korea may not seem like the friendliest place for vegans and vegetarians. Here's our guide to the best Buddhist places, a safe meat-free option for residents and travelers.

The Palace’s Painful Past

When you think of 'traditional Korean palace,' you won't think of this white building. The Grand Conservatory has a complex past, now open to the public.

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