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Remembering Gwangju

After reading a novel about the 1980 Gwangju Democratization Movement, the writer sets off to the city where it all unfolded in order to discover the event's meaning for himself.

Pojangmacha: Tent Nostalgia

For decades, the pojangmacha was a fixture of South Korean nightlife. The old and young drank soju and chatted in these often tiny, cramped tents. Most of these street tents have disappeared, now to a cultural relic and tool of nostalgic indulgence. But some tents still remain; here are the voices of those inside.

April 3 Uprising and Massacre

Dark Tour: Jeju Island Beyond Teddy Bear Museums

This month marks 70 years of 4.3, one of the worst cases of violence perpetrated by the South Korean state against its own citizens. A different sort of tour shows Jeju beyond the teddy bears and postcard beaches.

Why Are South Korea and North Korea Enemies?

Split by the two global superpowers after WW2, South and North Korea are still technically at war. But two countries have much more complex relations than being enemies.

Barber From Another Era

Welcome to Seongwoo Barbershop, one of South Korea's oldest barbershops and a fascinating glimpse into a forgotten era within a rapidly changing country.

The Palace’s Painful Past

When you think of 'traditional Korean palace,' you won't think of this white building. The Grand Conservatory has a complex past, now open to the public.

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