Almost every Saturday for the last twenty weeks or so, my friends and I took a stroll down to Gwanghwamun Plaza in downtown Seoul to join the protesters. We were young, awkward, and clueless. It didn’t take us long to realize that it was the first time, too, for a lot of the others—parents with babies in strollers, kids in school uniforms, students in university varsity jackets—all of them cheerful and most holding candles. It was oddly comforting.