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For many who make up Seoul’s gay scene, Saturday night begins on a narrow strip of a road, up a short but meandering incline behind the Itaewon fire station. “Homo Hill,” as this place is unofficially known, is a consortium of multiple bars and clubs serving cheap drinks and even cheaper clientele. It is by no means the only gay district in the city, but certainly the most visible and active, encircled by food stalls and bathhouses doing brisk business with drunken revelers. Though minuscule in
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